TMM:Service

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For brake lever service, see Non-Specific Bicycle Components#Brake inhibitors. For hub motor service, see Non-Specific Bicycle Components#Hub motors

Contents

Wiring diagram

This image is for reference only; your bicycle's wiring may differ.
IZIP Ultra 2011
IZIP Ultra 2012

TMM battery

Battery voltage check

Testing equipment required:

When servicing a Ultra or other 36V bicycle, DO NOT use probes to read from the charger port. The XLR-4 port on 36V bicycles uses smaller pins and can be damaged beyond repair by probes. Use TL-WR-009 instead.

Procedure:

  1. Locate charger port on the upper right-hand side of the downtube.
  2. Notice that the charger port pins are labeled 1, 2 and 3.
    • Pin 1 = Positive
    • Pin 2 = Ground
    • Pin 3 = not used for this application
  3. Insert the Red probe into the #1 pin and the Black probe into the #2 pin.
  4. Getting any reading at all shows that the wiring and 5A charger fuse is functioning properly and the batteries are able to receive a charge. If no reading is shown on the DMM than the internal wiring (charger port or 5A fuse) may have become disconnected, the fuse may be bad or the charger port may have become damaged. Note the reading on the DMM. For this pack (24V Li-Ion) any reading over +29.0VDC (max reading 29.4VDC) indicates a fully charged battery. Any reading below that indicates that the battery pack needs to be charged for 4-6 hours regardless of what the indicator LED on the charger shows.
    The charger port on the downtube of a TMM bicycle
    Charger port, lid open
    DMM probes in pin 1 (red) and pin 2 (black)
    DMM displaying the bike's battery voltage

Battery removal (downtube)

If servicing a 36V bicycle such as the Ultra, please see TMM:Service#Ultra

  1. Remove the two screws securing the charger port to the bike.
  2. Remove charger port from bike.
  3. Disconnect the charger port.
  4. Remove the downtube cap.
    Undo charger port screws
    Remove charger port from downtube
    Disconnect charger port from bike
    Remove cap from downtube
  5. Inside the downtube, disconnect any connectors between the battery and the bicycle.
  6. Remove the battery retention bolt. (two pieces)
    • For the Urban Cruiser Enlightened, you will need to either remove the drive-side crank arm or use a shortened 5mm hex L-key.
    • For Trekking and Trailz Enlightened bikes, you can either remove the drive-side crank arm or use a ball-tipped 5mm hex key through the crankset as shown below.
  7. The battery can be removed by pulling gently on the plastic tab on the end of the battery case. Avoid using pliers as the tab may break off. The battery has a snug fit in the downtube to prevent rattling. Steady and gentle pressure is needed to remove the battery from the downtube.
    This bolt secures the battery in the downtube
    Removing bolt with shortened L-key
    Removing bolt with ball-end driver
    Battery inside downtube, note black plastic tab

Fuse check

Testing equipment required:

Procedure:

The battery pack is equipped with two fuses, a 30A fuse to protect the battery output and a 5A fuse to protect the battery while charging. Both fuses are located inside the bottom of the downtube.

If the bike does operate normally but no voltage reading is obtained through the charger port than either the 5A fuse is blow or mis-installed or the charger port is damaged.

If the bike does not operate (no lights on the meter box) but you can read the voltage at the charger port than you will need to inspect the 30A fuse.

  1. Locate the fuses in the end of the downtube, under the plastic cap.
  2. Remove the downtube cap by unscrewing the three silver screws.
    • Later TMM Production - the downtube cap screws can be easily accessed on the sides and front of the downtube.
    • Early TMM Production - the downtube cap screws need to be accessed by removing the controller box cover and carefully bending the plastic controller box out of the way.
      • If you have an early production TMM bike you can relocate these screws to the side of the downtube by carefully drilling a 3mm hole on each side of the downtube and plastic cap.
    Blade-type fuse showing good (left) and blown (right)
  3. The fuse wires are labeled, 30A and 5A
  4. The 5A fuse can be visually inspected to determine if it is blown. You can also test the fuse by setting the DMM to “continuity”. Touch a probe to each side of the fuse. If the fuse is good the DMM will beep, if the fuse is bad the DMM will NOT beep indicating that the fuse has blown.
    • Note that even if the fuse appears to be good you should still remove it and be sure to fully re-insert it into both fuse holders. The fuse holders should provide a secure connection to properly engage the fuse.
  5. If the input fuse (5A) is found to be bad, replace with new fuse.
    • Currie Part # AU-066 (Fuse Spec: Blade style Fuse 5A/32V)
    • Alternate replacement fuse: ATO series (Blade 5A/32V)
    • Littelfuse part # ATO5 (Fast-Acting Automotive Blade Fuse) - 257 Series
    Visually inspect the fuse for a broke filament
    make sure the fuse is seated properly in the fuse holder
  6. Secure the fuse with electrical tape by wrapping the tape all the around the fuse and fuse holder.
  7. Retest the voltage reading at the charger port
  8. Perform the same inspection on the output fuse (30A). If the fuse is found to be bad, replace with new fuse
    • Currie Part # AU-065 (Fuse Spec: Blade style Fuse 30A/32V)
    • Alternate replacement fuse: ATO series (Blade 30A/32V)
    • Littelfuse part # ATO30 (Fast-Acting Automotive Blade Fuse) - 257 Series
  9. Secure the fuse with electrical tape by wrapping the tape all the around the fuse and fuse holder.
  10. Test the voltage reading at the battery connector by inserting the probes into the connector.

Charger port check

Testing equipment required:

Procedure:

  1. Remove the two screws securing the charger port to the bike
  2. Remove charger port from bike
  3. Disconnect the charger port.
  4. Set the DMM to “continuity”. Insert the probe into the #1 hole of the charger port. Touch the other probe to pin connected to the red wire. NOTE - be sure the probes are touching the pins, if not this test will work properly.
  5. Repeat step 4 for the #2 hole on the charger port and the black wire. If the charger port is found to be bad, either repair it or replace it with a new charger port.

Rear wheel

TMM rear wheel removal

  1. Remove the four screws securing the controller box cover to the controller box.
  2. Remove the controller box cover to access the TMM sensor connector.
  3. Carefully remove the TMM sensor connector from the controller box.
  4. Locate and remove the motor connectors.
  5. Disconnect the motor connectors.
  6. Remove the wire clips securing the motor wire to the chainstay.
    • Gently pry the clips off using a flat-head screwdriver
  7. Cut the zip tie securing the motor wire to the back of the controller box.
  8. Disconnect the rear brake.
  9. Loosen and remove the right axle nut and washers
  10. Loosen the left-side axle nut. The wheel can now be removed from the bike.

TMM rear wheel installation

  1. To install the rear wheel follow, in reverse order, steps 1-10 of TMM:Service#TMM rear wheel removal.
    • When reinstalling the rear wheel be sure to orient the axle wire slot facing DOWN as shown.
    • When reinstalling the rear wheel be sure to orient the anti-rotation washer (on right side axle) pointing in toward the wheel as shown
    • The slots for the zip ties on the back of the controller box are designed for 0.10” width zip ties.
    Axle wire slot faces down, properly routing wire
    Rear axle anti-rotation washer properly positioned

Sensor

TMM sensor check

If the system turns on (the LEDs on the meter box are lit up) but the motor does not function, or if the bike feels sluggish, you should check that the TMM sensor is functioning properly.

The TMM controller has a service port (with the exception of the first 50 TMM controllers produced) that allows the technician to read the TMM sensor output voltage (0.0V - 5.0V). If you have one of the 50 TMM controllers without a service port you will need a special wiring adapter (part # TL-WR-002) to read the sensor output voltage.

In addition to testing the function of the TMM sensor you will need to read the output voltage if you ever need change out the sensor or loosen the cover plate. The sensor should be set to 1.50V (+/-0.25V) during initial setup.

Testing equipment required:

Procedure:

  1. Remove the four screws securing the controller box cover to the controller box.
  2. Remove the controller box cover to access the TMM sensor connector.
  3. Carefully remove the TMM sensor connector from the controller box.
  4. Using a DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) and the DMM wiring adapter (part # TL-WR-001) attach it to the service port in order to read the sensor output voltage. TMM sensor output voltage (with no load on the pedals or frame) should be 1.50V (+/-0.25V).
  5. If the TMM controller does not have a service port or if you wish to read the sensor supply voltage (5.0V) than you will need to attach the SM-3 wiring adapter (part # TL-WR-002). This adapter will go inline between the controller and the TMM sensor connector. Please note that since this adapter was originally designed for use on RMB bikes, the green/black wires will show the sensor supply voltage (rather than the output voltage).
  6. With the this adapter you can read the sensor supply voltage or the sensor output voltage.
    TMM sensor output voltage (with service port)
    TMM sensor output voltage using test harness (on controller without service port)
    TMM sensor input voltage using test harness
  7. With both the sensor supply voltage and sensor output voltage showing voltages in the correct range move on to testing the function of the TMM sensor. When pressure is applied to the pedals the sensor output voltage should increase. For example, without load on the pedals the voltage reading is 1.39V.
  8. Hold the rear wheel with your left hand and push down on the pedals with your left hand. The TMM sensor output should increase showing that the sensor is working properly. Additionally if the motor is functioning properly you should feel it turning on slightly with your left hand.
    In this example the sensor voltage with no load is 1.39V
    In this example the sensor voltage with pressure on the pedals is 1.48V

TMM sensor replacement

If checking the TMM sensor shows it is not functioning properly than you will need to replace it. Replacement of the TMM sensor is straightforward with the only critical part is to be sure to set the initial voltage of the TMM sensor to 1.50V (+/- 0.25V). The TMM controllers have a service port (with the exception of the first 50 TMM controllers produced) that allows the technician to read the TMM Sensor output voltage (0.0V - 5.0V). If you have one of the 50 TMM controllers without a service port you will need a special wiring adapter (part # TL-WR-002) to read the sensor output voltage.

Testing equipment required:

  • Torque wrench

Procedure:

  1. Follow the steps in TMM:Service#TMM rear wheel removal
  2. Remove the wire clips securing the TMM sensor wire to the chainstay.
    • Gently pry the clips off using a flat-head screwdriver
  3. Cut the zip tie securing the motor wire to the back of the controller box.
  4. Remove the three bolts securing the dropout plate to the frame.
  5. Remove the dropout plate from the frame.
    remove three wire clips along chainstay
    Remove three M5 dropout bolts
    The TMM dropout plate
  6. Remove the three bolts securing the TMM sensor and TMM sensor cover plate to the dropout plate.
  7. Remove the old TMM sensor
  8. Install the new TMM sensor into the dropout plate as shown, inserting the the spring into the slot first, then the ball bearing
  9. Push the TMM sensor into the two alignment holes on the dropout plate as shown. Be sure the sensor sits flush against the dropout plate.
    installing new TMM sensor into dropout plate
    Sensor sits flush against plate
  10. Install the dropout plate onto the frame. Before tightening the bolts, make sure the sensor wire fits into the groove between the frame and the dropout plate
  11. Torque the three bolts that hold the dropout plate to the frame to 13Nm (115 in-lbs)
  12. Install the TMM sensor cover plate onto the bike as shown. Do not tighten the two cover plate bolts yet; these will be used to calibrate the sensor
  13. Run the new sensor wire along the chainstay, securing it with wire clips. Note that there are two sizes of wire clips; the smaller are used for the TMM sensor wire, the larger for the motor wire.
    With sensor wire safely in groove, torque dropout plate bolts to 13Nm (115 in-lbs)
  14. Secure the sensor wire to the back of the controller box with a .10" zip tie.
  15. Connect the new TMM sensor to the controller.
  16. Extremely important: Once you have installed the new sensor, you must calibrate it, following the steps in TMM:Service#TMM sensor calibration
  17. After calibrating the TMM sensor, replace the rear wheel, following the steps in TMM:Service#TMM rear wheel installation

TMM sensor calibration

The Ultra does not require sensor calibration.

Reasons to calibrate a TMM sensor:

  • A new TMM sensor has been installed
  • The bolts around the sensor have been loosened or adjusted
  • The bike feels unresponsive or sluggish
  • An unusually high amount of pedaling force is required to activate the motor
  • Check-up calibration performed periodically throughout the life of the bicycle

Testing equipment required:

The TMM sensor can be calibrated with or without the rear wheel installed in the bike.

Procedure:

  1. Loosen, but do not remove, the two sensor cover-plate bolts on the bike's right-side dropout.
  2. Remove the controller box cover (four Phillips-head screws) to access the TMM service port.
  3. Turn the bike on using the 'power' button on the meter box.
  4. Using your DMM set to DC voltage and wiring adaptor TL-WR-001, begin reading the sensor output voltage from the service port.
    • The objective of the calibration process is to get a constant voltage reading of 1.5V (+/- 0.25V) from the TMM sensor. Any voltage within this range is acceptable, and there is no performance difference between, for example, a sensor set to 1.25V and one set to 1.75V.
    Loosen two small cover-plate bolts
    Controller box screws (front)
    Controller box screws (rear)
    Reading TMM sensor voltage from service port
    In this example, sensor voltage needs to be lowered.
  5. Insert a small flat-head screwdriver into the slot in the sensor cover-plate. Push the sensor gently to the side, observing the voltage on your DMM. When the meter reads 1.5V (+/- .25V), tighten the lower cover-plate bolt first, then the upper. Remove the screwdriver from the calibration slot and confirm that the sensor voltage is steady and correct.
  6. Torque the cover-plate bolts to 1.3Nm (11.5 in-lbs), verifying that the calibration is not disturbed.
  7. Close the controller box.
  8. Turn the bike off, the on again and ride-test to confirm the sensor is properly calibrated.

Ultra

Special considerations when servicing the Ultra:

  • Sensor calibration and checking
    • The Ultra uses a newer version of TMM sensor that does not require calibration.
    • While the dropout and sensor configuration differs slightly from what is shown in the photos above, the procedure to test the sensor remains largely unchanged.
    • As the Ultra controller has no service port, you will need to use TL-WR-002 inline between the sensor and controller to read output and input voltages.
  • Battery-related
    • When servicing a Ultra or other 36V bicycle, DO NOT use probes to read from the charger port. The XLR-4 port on 36V bicycles uses smaller pins and can be damaged beyond repair by probes. Use TL-WR-009 instead.
    • When removing the battery, please note that the charger port connects to the battery in the controller compartment instead of near the head tube as shown above.
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