Non-Specific Bicycle Components

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Contents

Brake inhibitors

Testing

Testing procedures for brake inhibitors are nearly the same for every Currie bicycle.

Testing equipment required:

Procedure:

  1. Locate the brake inhibitor connector inside the controller box (we are interested in the wire running from the actual brake lever, not from the controller). It will be either a TL-SM-3A connector, or a TL-DJ7021A-2.8-21 connector, depending on model. Models with dual brake-inhibitors will usually have a separate wire running from each brake lever, and in these cases the test should be run on each individually.
    • On bicycles with rack-mounted batteries, the controller box is inside the rack. On folding & TMM bicycles, as well as the Tricruiser, the box is near the bottom bracket.
    • These instructions show the test performed on a TMM bicycle.
  2. Disconnect the brake inhibitor connector from the controller. Set the DMM to “continuity”. Plug the matching connector from TL-WR-005 into the brake inhibitor connector.
    • Alternately, you can perform this test using probes. Make sure the probes are contacting the pins inside the connector, then proceed.
  3. Pull the brake lever. If the brake inhibitor circuit is working properly, the DMM will beep indicating a short circuit. If the brake inhibitor is bad, the DMM will not beep.

If the brake inhibitor always shows continuity (DMM beeps even when lever is not pulled), it must be replaced or disabled before the bike will operate. If the brake inhibitor never shows continuity, it should be replaced or repaired.

Brake inhibitor plugs. This example shows only one brake lever plugged in to the controller.
Testing brake inhibitor function with TL-WR-005
Pull brake lever and listen for DMM indicator beep
Alternately, test with probes

Tektro EL340 sensor replacement

The brake inhibitor sensor on the EL340 brake lever is a magnetic proximity sensor located on the bottom side of the brake lever. The sensor is specific to either the left or right brake lever. The sensor is triggered by the magnet passing back and forth across the sensor when the brake lever is pulled.

When replacing the sensor be sure to align the positioning pin into the hole on the brake lever. Apply threadlock to the screw threads. A misaligned or faulty sensor will cause the bike to not function properly.

Detail of sensor on bottom side of brake lever

Fuses

Fuse testing

Ceramic/glass fuses

For testing of ceramic and glass style (tube-shaped) fuses, see RMB:Service#Battery_fuse_check.

Blade-style (automotive) fuses

How to check blade-style fuses

Testing equpiment required:

Visual inspection:

Blade-type fuse showing good (left) and blown (right)

Continuity testing:

  1. Set your DMM to continuity mode
  2. Touch a probe to each metal leg of the fuse.
    • If the DMM beeps or makes an indication of a "short", the fuse is good.
    • If the DMM makes no indication at all, the fuse is bad.

Fuse specifications

5 Amp blade fuse

  • Currie Part # AU-066 (Fuse Spec: Blade style Fuse 5A/32V)
  • Alternate replacement fuse: ATO series (Blade 5A/32V)
  • Littelfuse part # ATO5 (Fast-Acting Automotive Blade Fuse) - 257 Series

30 Amp blade fuse

  • Currie Part # AU-065 (Fuse Spec: Blade style Fuse 30A/32V)
  • Alternate replacement fuse: ATO series (Blade 30A/32V)
  • Littelfuse part # ATO30 (Fast-Acting Automotive Blade Fuse) - 257 Series

40 Amp blade fuse

  • Currie Part # AU-062
  • Alternate replacement fuse: ATO series (Blade 30A/32V)
  • Littelfuse part # 257040 (Fast-Acting Automotive Blade Fuse) - 257 Series

40 Amp glass/ceramic fuse

  • Currie Part # AU-063 (Fuse Spec: 6.3mm x 30.5mm Ceramic Fuse 40A/250V)
  • Alternate replacement fuse: AGC series (1/4” x 1-1/4” 40A/32V)
  • Cooper Bussman part # BK/AGC-40-R (Fast Acting, Glass Tube)

Hub motors

To this date, hub motors used on Currie bicycles are exclusively 3-phase brushless type.

Testing equipment required:

  • Phillips-head screwdriver

Internal magnet testing

  1. Identify and disconnect the two plugs (or single plug paired with bullet-connectors) that connect to the hub motor.
    • Power in:
      • Single white 3-pin plug, with blue, yellow, and green wires exiting. Male plug is always motor-side, female plug is controller-side.
      • Or, three bullets, connected to blue, yellow, and green wires.
    • Hall-sensor reading:
      • Single black 5-pin connector, with black, yellow, green, blue, red wires.
      • Or, single white connector, with black, yellow, green, blue, red wires. Possibly some pins left empty.
    Motor connections in 2010 TMM bike
  2. Identify the plug or bullets that accept power in to the motor.
  3. The objective of this step is to connect the three power-in wires to each other.
    • Plug-type: Insert a screwdriver or wrench into the connector, being sure to touch all three pins. With the three pins shorted, spin the wheel backwards. You may see a small, harmless spark caused by the motor generating power. Notice that the wheel resists being turned backwards when the connector is shorted. This resistance should be constant. If you feel a change in the resistance of the wheel as it spins backwards through a full rotation, it is possible that the connection to one or more magnets inside the motor has been damaged. Be sure to also check the plug for damaged pins or wires.
    • Bullet-type: Hold or tape the three power-in bullets together. With these bullets shorted, spin the wheel backwards. You may see a small, harmless spark caused by the motor generating power. Notice that the wheel resists being turned backwards when the connector is shorted. This resistance should be constant. If you feel a change in the resistance of the wheel as it spins backwards through a full rotation, it is possible that the connection to one or more magnets inside the motor has been damaged. Be sure to also check the bullets and wires themselves for damage.
    Shorting the power-in pins with a screwdriver

If this procedure produces positive results, but you still feel the hub motor may be broken, you can try powering it using a known-good controller, battery, and throttle (or cadence sensor, TMM sensor, etc).

Testing with TL-CHKRBX-HALL

Currie now has available a "checker box" for Bafang (8fun) brand hub motors (most models post-2010). Shops can order one direct from Currie. By plugging TL-CHKRBX-HALL into the sensor wires of a compatible hub motor, then spinning the wheel backward, a tech can quickly assess whether the hub has an internal problem by making sure all 3 indicator LEDs are flashing. If one does not flash, the hub has an internal issue and needs service or replacement.

Other motors

Steps listed for "Currie Drive motors" will work with any non-hub motor

Testing equipment required:

Currie Drive motors

  1. Place the bike into a service stand. This test involves spinning the motor and the bike needs to be secured to allow the rear wheel to spin safely.
  2. Install the battery pack into the right side of the RMB rack. Do not turn the power on yet - be sure the switch is “OFF”.
  3. Open the controller compartment on the RMB rack.
  4. With the battery pack in the right side of the RMB rack, cut the zip tie holding the PnP connector together and pull the connector apart.
  5. Cut the zip tie holding the motor connector together and pull the connector apart. Mark the connector as “motor”.
  6. Attach TL-WR-008 to the PnP connector then to the motor connector.
    Connect TL-WR-008 between switch and motor
  7. Flip the battery selector switch. If the motor is good, it will begin to spin. Be careful, the motor will engage suddenly and forcefully, at full throttle. If the motor does not engage, flip the switch the other way to try the other battery terminal. If neither side works, begin testing the various components of the RMB rack as described in RMB:Service#Rack sub-components
    • If the motor still does not engage and assuming that you have already tested the battery pack and switch and both were good, than replace the motor and retest.

PAS Sensor

For a guide specific to the E3Metro, please see Media:Metro PAS troubleshooting Web.pdf

Alignment

  1. If the throttle operates the motor in TAG (Twist and Go) and not in PAS (Pedal Assist System) than you will need to check the alignment of the PAS sensor and magnet ring.
  2. The PAS Sensor is mounted on the right side of the bottom bracket on a metal bracket. The magnet right is mounted on the right side of the bottom bracket spindle.
  3. The gap between the PAS Sensor and magnet ring should be 2mm.
    • If the gap is not within spec either push the magnet ring further onto the spindle or gently bend the sensor mount to achieve the proper gap.
In this photo, the crankset has been removed for easier viewing of the sensor and magnet ring.
Magnet ring and sensor head, properly aligned

Switches

2- and 3-position switches. Green indicates continuity between terminals. Terminals are symmetrical right/left.

Use a DMM to test continuity between switch terminals at different positions.

Handlebar-mount PAS/TAG and ON/OFF switch


PAS/TAG switch

The PAS/TAG switch is a toggle-type switch. It terminates in a 2-wire male connector.

To test, use probes and a multimeter set to the continuity setting. Touch one probe to each pin in the connector.

in PAS mode, the meter will not indicate continuity.

in TAG mode, the meter will indicate continuity between the pins (audible beep).


Throttle ON/OFF switch

The ON/OFF switch is a momentary-type switch; it does not lock into place.

To test, use probes and a multimeter set to the continuity setting. Touch one probe to each pin in the connector.

When the button is depressed, the meter will show continuity between the pins (audible beep). When the button is released, the meter will not indicate continuity.

Throttles

Testing equipment required:

Please note: these instructions refer to throttles using a "3+2" system; that is, the throttle wire terminates in separate 2-pin and a 3-pin connectors. The two-pin connector is input for the battery gauge, the three-pin connector is output/input from the hall (twist) sensor. Diagnostics with this type of throttle use TL-WR-002.

Some models of bicycles and scooters use a 5-pin connector, which combines the 3+2 connectors. Diagnostics with this type of throttle use TL-WR-003.

Battery gauge voltage testing

The hall sensor (throttle twist sensor) and battery gauge are on separate circuits. This means that the lights on the throttle may be working but the twisting the throttle does not operate the motor.

  1. Insert a battery pack into the RMB Rack and turn the bike “ON”. If the lights on the throttle turn on, the controller and throttle lights are OK. If not proceed to step 2.
  2. Disconnect the battery gauge connector (orange and grey wires) from the controller.
  3. Insert TL-WR-001 into the connector coming from the controller (orange and gray wires). Set the DMM to read DC voltage.
    • The special adapter is used to prevent arching if the probes were to touch while testing the connector.
    • If you do not have the special adapter it is possible to use only the test probes on the battery gauge connector from the controller but extreme must be taken in doing so.
  4. Note the voltage reading on the DMM. If no voltage is shown, the battery gauge is not receiving power. Replace the controller and retest. If voltage is shown, the battery gauge is not functining properly. Replace the throttle and retest.
The battery gauge connector
DMM reads battery voltage through gauge connector

Hall sensor supply voltage and hall sensor signal testing

The hall sensor (throttle twist sensor) and battery gauge are on separate circuits. This means that the lights on the throttle may be working but the twisting the throttle does not operate the motor.

  1. Disconnect the motor from the controller. This is a safety step to ensure the motor will not spin during the this test. Mark the connector as “Motor”.
  2. Install the battery pack into the right side of the RMB rack. Do not turn the power on yet
  3. Insert the special adapter (part # TL-WR-002) into the throttle connection (red, green and black wires), the special adaptor will fit “in-line” between the controller and throttle. Using this special adapter will prevent arching and allow real time viewing of the throttle supply voltage and throttle signal.

    Throttle voltage ranges
    Please note that the throttle will work under a fairly wide voltage range, and unless you have reason to suspect that something is not working right, generally there is not a problem.
    • #1 connector (red and black wires) = hall sensor supply voltage
      • (5V ± .5V)
    • #2 connector (green and black wires) = hall sensor signal
      • (0.5V - 4V, ± 0.5V)
    Disconnect the motor
    Install a battery
    File:Throttle hall sensor connector.png
    The throttle hall sensor connection
    File:TL-WR-002 checking hall sensor.jpg
    TL-WR-002 in between controller and throttle. Note this photo shows old TL-WR-002 color scheme.
  4. Attach the DMM to the #1 connector on the special adapter and turn the dial on the DMM to read “volts”. Refer to the DMM’s owner manual on how to do this. Turn the DMM “ON”. Turn the bike “ON”, if there are no lights on the throttle turn the bike’s power switch to the opposite side.
  5. Note the reading on the DMM, it should be 5V (± .5V). This indicates that power is flowing out of the battery pack to the controller and up to the hall sensor.
    • If there is no voltage reading than inspect the wires and connector on the controller and adapter as there may be damage.
    • If no damage is found replace the controller with a new controller and retest.
  6. Move the DMM clip to the #2 connector on the special adapter. This will show the signal output of the hall sensor in the throttle.
    • At zero throttle rotation the voltage reading should be 0.5V (± .5V).
    • Twisting the throttle to full rotation the voltage reading should be 4V (± 0.5V).
    • If there is no voltage reading (either at zero or full throttle rotation) than inspect the wires and connector on the throttle and adapter as there may be damage.
    • If no damage is found replace the throttle with a new throttle and retest.

PAS/TAG switch testing

  1. To test the PAS/TAG button on the throttle set the DMM to “continuity”.
  2. Disconnect the PAS/TAG connector (yellow and brown wires) from the controller.
  3. Connect the female end of TL-WR-001 to the yellow and brown wires leaving the throttle.
    • When the PAS/TAG button is depressed (TAG mode), the DMM will beep, indicating a short.
    • When the PAS/TAG button is not depressed (PAS mode), the DMM will make no indication.
    • If the DMM never shows continuity, or shows continuity in both switch positions, replace the throttle with a new unit.
The PAS/TAG switch connector (yellow/brown wires)

Throttle bypass test

Deprecated. Safety features no longer allow the throttle to be bypassed. You must substitute a known good throttle in order to test throttle function.

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